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Kamis, 02 April 2015

Kelimutu

Mount Kelimutu, with its tri-colored crater lakes, is probably the most amazing natural phenomenon in Flores. Beyond that, the ‘steaming mountain’ is also the island’s most famous tempat angker, or mystical, haunted place.
Scientific explanations aside, there are many myths about the origin of Kelimutu. This is one of the reasons why Mount Kelimutu was, and still is a sacred place for the local people. Over the years, the three crater lakes have often changed color. At present, one of the lakes is black-brown, one is green, and one is currently changing from green to a reddish color. A reason may be the varying mineral contents of the water. Another explanation suggests that the changing colors are caused by the neglected ancestral souls.
The first lake is named Tiwu Ata Mbupu (lake of the ancestors' souls ); the second is named Tiwu Nuwa Muri Koo Fai (lake of young people’s souls); and the third is called Tiwu Ata Polo (lake of evil spirits). The first and second lakes are situated close together; while the third lake is about 1.5km to the west. Kelimutu is a beautiful place at any time of the day. However, the best time to enjoy this magical place is in the early morning when the clouds haven’t yet covered the view. Many visitors prefer to see the sunrise.
The most popular and convenient starting point to visit Kelimutu is Moni, a village close to the Transflores ‘highway’. Whereas until not too long ago visitors had to hike all the way up to Kelimutu, there is now a paved road to a parking lot where you can enjoy a 30-minute walk through a lush forest full of birdsong, before entering the lake area.
Moni, too, is worth a stay. You can do many nice treks in the fertile surroundings of rice fields, forests, and hills. Relax in the hot springs nearby, look at some fine Lio ikat in the market, or enjoy a performance of local dance and music. Another starting point to Kelimutu, and a good alternative to Moni, is Detusoko village, which is about 33km from Kelimutu.
Kelimutu National Park
The Kelimutu crater lakes are only a small part of the Kelimutu National Park. This fascinating area belongs to the worldwide protected areas and is internationally recognized by the United Nations Environment Program. Due to its unique natural features, its high biodiversity, and cultural heritage, Kelimutu National Park attracts thousands of tourists each year. Numerous hills and mountains (Mount Kelibara is the highest peak at 1,731 m) give this region its characteristic touch and provide a habitat for at least 19 rare, endemic bird species. As in so many places in Flores, traditional architecture, dances, and ikat weaving are still deeply rooted among the local people.
Facilities
If you choose Detusoko Village as your starting point, you can spend the night in the guesthouse called Wisma Santu Fransiskus (+62 81314350522 ), which is managed by the Sisters of the Saint Francis Order. The nuns use the income of the guesthouse for their social work to help orphaned children in Detusoko.
If you prefer to start from Moni, you can choose one of the many basic to mid-range cottages or hotels. Get ready for your hiking tour with an energetic meal from a local restaurant or warung. In Moni you can find some small shops with a basic range of products, and a market where you can buy agricultural products, food, clothes, and much more for the daily life. The market opens every Monday, Tuesday and Sunday, whereas Monday is the happening day.
How to go there
From Maumere to Moni it takes about 62km, from Ende to Moni 51km (1 hour). Daily public transport connects Bajawa and Ende with Moni. From Bajawa to Moni, it takes about 4 hours. Detusoko, the alternative starting point, is located between Moni and Ende

Mbalata Beach

Mbalata Beach is in Kotakomba sub-district in East Manggarai, about 42km east of Borong, nicely framed by Mount Inerie to the east and by soft, hilly landscapes to the west. This spot is popular among locals as well as foreign visitors. You can go for an easy hike along the wide, grey-sand coast to the grazing land of Nangarawa Hill where you will be able to catch a beautiful view over the sea and the surrounding farmland.
If you like to do a little more in Manggarai Timur than just passing through in a rush, do not miss the opportunity to spend the night in unconventional, locally owned accommodation of which the beach is just one of the many special highlights.
At Mbalata Inn Beach Cottages, you are offered a unique experience of Florinese rural lifestyle. See how the farmers work the beautiful rice fields that surround you, supported by water buffaloes slowly trailing the ploughs behind them; or learn how the old local men get the palm sap from the aren palm to produce moke – the traditional Manggaraian liquor – in small huts near the cottage.
The management, committed to eco-friendliness, is truly implementing its concept: Every week, the inn’s team works together with primary school kids to clean up the beach. The children get school books in return. The vegetables for the inn’s own restaurant are freshly picked, and seafood is bought from the local fishermen.
Facilities
The Mbalata Inn is located directly on the beach. It is equipped with its own restaurant. 
How to get there
The beach and the cottages are situated close to the Transflores ‘highway’ between Ruteng and Bajawa. If you come from Bajawa, respectively Aimere, you will cross the bridge over the Wae Lengga River. After that bridge, look out for the sign to Mbalata Cottage Beach Inn on your left.

Cepi Watu Beach

Although not a typical beach to spread one’s towel, Cepi Watu has its own charms. A popular hangout place among the locals, it is definitely a worthwhile spot to enrich your stay in Borong.  
The beach is interspersed with round, medium-sized black stones, which at certain times  are covered by sand. Depending on the sun’s angle of entry, Cepi Watu offers a unique ambience of light and color. There is also a natural spring where fresh water comes out from a hole in the stones. The locals sometimes come here to fetch water for their daily needs. 
From the eastern part of the beach, a beautiful panoramic view of Mount Ndeki invites one to take photos. There, you may walk to the mangrove forests or to the place where local fishermen park their boats. From time to time, public events and traditional ceremonies are held at the beach where the local government has built a concrete stage with a spacious arena and a house in the Manggaraian architectural style.
Facilities
Borong, the capital of Manggarai Timur, offers a small range of accommodation, restaurants, and warung (small restaurants or food stalls). 
How to get there 
Cepi Watu Beach is located only 2km from the Borong town center. The distance from Ruteng to Borong is about 55km or approximately two hours. From Borong, drive toward to Ruteng on the Transflores 'highway' until you come to a white concrete gate with a buffalo horn on top of it. Keep on driving, from this point you will arrive at the beach in only five minutes.

Rana Mese Lake

Ranamese, a mountainous natural reserve (Taman Wisata Alam), impresses with its dense forests and a 21-meter-deep crater lake at an altitude of 1220m. Ranamese is ideal for those who want to explore the Florinese highlands by trekking. It is also a perfect place for bird watchers. 
Ranamese Lake is situated in the middle of the forest, surrounded by a dense vegetation of mosses, scrubs, tropical woods, and water plants. The climate is comfortably fresh. Its calm and clear water makes it easy to spot freshwater fish. Other prominent animals around the lake are the wild macaques. 
If you wish to visit a nearby village, Teber in Golo Rutuk, about 6km from Ranamese, is a nice place to drop by. The road to Golo Rutuk is in a bad condition, though, and it is rather difficult to reach by car. 
To make the most out of your trip, you may want to arrange your visit with the local rangers. The forest is dense, and the rangers can also provide you with the local knowledge about the flora and fauna of Ranamese. Alternatively, you can contact the local tour operators to help you arrange a full excursion in advance.
Ranamese easily makes for a full-day excursion. Bring a warm outfit, warm drinks, and your favorite snacks to have a picnic under the tree canopy while enjoying the view of the serene lake. During the rainy season, the forest is ornamented with various colorful wild orchids. A good pair of binoculars will come in handy here to get a close-up look at the forest’s exciting flora and fauna along your trekking route.
We encourage visitors to help protect Ranamese and to follow the code of conduct. Take your waste with you and do not leave anything but footprints. Please respect the fact that fires are strictly prohibited. You will be asked to pay an entrance fee of Rp 5,000 to support the area’s conservation. 
Facilities
For further information about the Ranamese area, please contact Pak Mias on +6285239074190 who works for Taman Wisata Alam (TWA) Ruteng. There are several local operators who organize tours to and around Ranamese, e.g. Flores Exotic Tours (Leonardus Nyoman, +628123662110). Another operator who is particularly focused on bird watching is Lumba-Lumba Tours (Lois Beda, +6281339462381; email: gokomodotours@gmail.com). Accommodation is available in Borong and Ruteng. 
How to get there
Ranamese is located along the Ruteng–Borong Transflores ‘highway’, 27km from Ruteng and 37km from Borong. The lake is easy to find as the gate is very near the main road.

Cancar (Spider Web Rice Fields)

In Manggarai you will certainly notice the impressive lingko fields. The most amazing view over a number of these fields is offered at Cara Village situated on a small hill 17km west of Ruteng in Cancar. With their round, spider-web structure, these pieces of land are unique eye-catchers in Manggarai.
Long before wet-rice cultivation, the ancestors of the Manggaraian people grew dry rice, corn, and tubers in the lingko fields. Every village used to own several fields. During planting and harvesting time, ceremonies and ritual offerings were held at the lodok, the ritual center of the lingko. The lodok features a wooden pole and a rock. These two objects symbolize the reunion of the male and female, the heaven and earth, and the creation of mankind. If a new lingko was developed, the sacrifice of a water buffalo was required. The division of a new lingko was guided by the tu’a teno, the Lord of the Land. This traditional leader had the authority over the land and the rituals and ceremonies related to the agricultural cycle. The distribution of the fields to different families was carried out at the lodok. Every family of a community had the right to work a certain piece of land. Depending on the family’s size, the head of the family held a certain number of fingers to the pole in the lodok. The distance between the fingers was marked on this pole. From these two points, lines were drawn to the outer circle of the lingko, defining the size of a family’s land. These pie segments were called moso, which means ‘hand’ in the Manggarai language. The moso were not conceived as the private property of a single person or household. Traditionally the lingko was farmed with a system of shifting cultivation, thus claims of constant land tenure were not yet common. After a two-year utilization period, the old fields were given up, and virgin forest – which in the past was abundant – or former fallow land, was cleared for new fields. Even though these fields still exist today, their agricultural and ritual context has changed drastically.
Nowadays the lingko fields are primarily used for wet-rice cultivation. With the dominance of this new form of farming, the significance of the traditional agricultural
calendar with its rituals and ceremonies, embedded in the planting and harvesting of dry rice and corn, has also faded.
Facilities
In Cara Village you will not find any tourist facilities. Ruteng, located 16km from Cara Village, offers some accommodation and restaurants.

How to get there
Located only 17km from Ruteng, Cancar is easily reachable from Ruteng by motorbike or car. Bemo also frequently head to Cancar from the market in Ruteng. From the terminal in Cancar it is about a 1km walk to the viewing point in Cara Village. While passing through the village, you are expected to stop at the adat house to sign the guestbook and leave a small donation.

Wae Rebo Village

Wae Rebo is an old Manggaraian village, situated in pleasant, isolated mountain scenery. The village offers visitors a unique opportunity to see authentic Manggarai housing and to experience the everyday life of the local community. In the village of Wae Rebo, visitors can see mbaru niang – traditional, circular cone-shaped houses with very unique architecture. Nowadays, it is still a place to hold meetings, rituals and Sunday-morning prayers together.
The village can only be reached by way of a three-hour hike (depending on your physical condition) from the lowlands. The hike is definitely worth the effort: the dense rain forest along the narrow path to Wae Rebo is one of a stunning biological diversity. Not only does it host interesting vegetation, including orchids, palms, and different ferns, but also an impressive population of singing birds. 
Wae Rebo has been supported to become the major culture tourism attraction in West Flores. Together with a team of Jakarta-based architects and the Indonesian government, the local community renovated four of their mbaru niang – or ‘drum houses’ in the Manggaraian language. 
The circular, cone-shaped buildings were all rebuilt in a traditional way. In contrast today’s rectangular buildings, the hearth is situated in the center of the house. The massive roof, made out of palm fiber, is supported by a central wooden pole. The ceremonial house – differing in size from the other buildings – is the place where sacred heirloom drums and gongs are stored, and where different ceremonies and rituals are held. This house is a communal building, gathering eight families who are descended from a common ancestor under its huge roof. Its structure symbolizes the unity of the clan, with the sacred drums considered the clan’s medium to communicate with the ancestors.
When you visit Wae Rebo, you will not only see the authentic Manggaraian housing, but also get an opportunity to experience the daily life of the local people. Most of the people work in their gardens from early morning until dawn, busy with harvesting coffee and processing the beans. Even though weaving is not a major activity in Wae Rebo, you may encounter some women weaving traditional songket cloth. Visitors are welcome to spend the night in the mbaru niang, and to socialize and dine with the Wae Rebo community. You will sleep on a tikar, a woven mat made out of pandanus leaf, in the mbaru niang, and get a taste of how life used to be when the extended families still lived their lives under one roof.
Facilities
If you would like to stay in Wae Rebo for a night, there are several local guides as well as tour operators who can organize trekking and overnight stay for you, e.g. Leonardus Nyoman on +62 8123662110 or www.floresexotictours.com, Yeremias Uril on +6281380709223 or p3mtstaf@gmail.com, or Martinus Anggo on +6285239344046 or martin_anggo@yahoo.com. Blasius Monta (+6381339350775) can organize a local homestay in Denge. As the community offers you to experience their daily life, you will dine together with them and they will also take care of your well-being. Nevertheless, it is recommended to bring your own water supply with you.

How to get there
There are several options for getting to Wae Rebo:

Car or motorbike from Ruteng:
Start the 2.5 - 3 hour drive by heading south towards Golo Lusang. After having passed Pong Nggeok village, you will cross Wae Mese bridge. Go ahead to Narang village, followed by Nanga Ramut village, and you will end up in Dintor. From this small fishing village you can see the beautiful Mules Island. The road to the north brings you to Kombo – Wae Rebo’s twin village – and finally to Denge village, which is the starting point for the hike to Wae Rebo.

Tengku Lese Waterfall

Tengkulese Waterfall, which is also referred to as Cunca Lega (cunca means ‘waterfall’ in the Manggaraian language) is named after the nearby village. The water drops over two levels with a promising altitude. Surrounded by a lush forest and rice terraces, it can even be spotted from a distance.
The waterfall can be reached by way of a nice short hike. From Nanu Village, you will have to walk for about 2.5km through a beautiful panoramic landscape with soft green hills, terraced rice fields, and farmers plowing the land with their water buffalos to get to the waterfall. Arriving at the foot of the waterfall, let yourself be impressed by the breathtaking two-tiered waterfall tumbling down from 100m with a massive roaring sound, as well as rays of light creating small rainbows. Hopping over the big brown rocks that spread around the waterfall’s base is a fun thing to do – but watch your step, as it can be slippery. Though the waterfall is indeed very inviting to jump into, it is strongly recommended not to do so because the water is very rough. Further down the stream you can find smaller, calmer pools, which are safer and more relaxing to swim in.
This rewarding trip to Tengkulese can be easily done in combination with a one-day trip to the spider-web rice fields of Cancar or to the Liang Bua archaeological site. The trip to Liang Bua may also be combined with a visit to Liang Nggalang, a limestone cave next to Liang Bua Cave, as well as to Beokina Village, which is wellknown for its traditional houses. Countless beautiful scenic views of rice terraces and villages are spread along the road to Tengkulese. Tebo, which is the closest village to the waterfall, makes a perfect stop or coffee break (ask the local people if you can get a coffee by way of small donation) after the hike to the waterfall.
Facilities
For information on accessibility during the rainy season and an advanced booking of a local guide to Tengkulese Waterfall, contact the head of the village, Bapak Gradus Beat, on +62 8133 7931 764.
If you wish to book a tour to Tengkulese from outside Flores, contact Pak Leonardus Nyoman – who speaks fluent German and English – on www.floresexotictours.com or +62 8123662110.
How to get there
From Ruteng, it takes about a two hour drive to reach the starting point of the hike. There are a number of routes that lead to Tengkulese, but the shortest recommended one is from Liang Bua, which is only 15km from Tengkulese; from Ruteng to Liang Bua, add another 13km. The best option is to go there by private vehicle (car or motorbike). The access road ends at Nanu Village. From there, you will have to walk for about 2.5km to get to the waterfall.

Ruteng Pu,u

The traditional village of Ruteng Pu’u, located 4km from Ruteng, is one of the most popular places to see the traditional compang, a round, stone platform surrounded by a circle of stones and traditional houses.
The compang  is the center of traditional ceremonies and rituals, e.g. for sacrificial offerings. An impressive waringin tree (Ficus Benjamina), locally known as a ‘ruteng’, once grew in the center of the compang.  It is now replaced by a dadap tree. On the east side of the compang, there are two tall traditional houses with spiked roofs.
Facilities
Ruteng, which is situated only 4km from Ruteng Pu’u, offers some low-budget accommodation and restaurants.
How to get there
Ruteng Pu’u can be reached within 10 minutes from the center of Ruteng and is accessible by car, motorbike, or on foot.